Saturday, June 7, 2014

Garhwal 4 - birding towards Har-ki-dun

Day 6: trek from Taluka towards Seema and return;
Day 7: exploring the left bank of Tons upstream of Taluka


Today would be a slightly longer hike.
We plan to walk at least half-way from Taluka towards Seema on the Har-ki-dun / Ruinsara tal trek route and return.
SS has described the early section of the track as passing through scrub, and HSS mentions that these 'transition areas' could throw up different bird species. Over the past few days we have enjoyed good birding, but all of us have commented that the bird density has been quite low, especially in dense forest. We have not found any large mixed hunting parties which are such an exciting part of himalayan birding.

Looking back towards Taluka FRH; 'transition areas' with mixed habitat on left-bank of Tons

The transition areas are where forest, bushy scrub, fruit trees and cultivation intersect.

We are only a short distance into our trek when a rosefinch, just off the track, ensconses itself in a dry stalky bush. As we come abreast, it freezes only a few feet from us. We get partially obscured views through the grassy stalks. It is a Pink-browed Rosefinch.

Soon we are in a glade with scattered fruit trees and terraced fields. A flock of bullfinches flits through the trees. Another wonderful, not commonly seen species - Brown Bullfinches.   

Brown Bullfinch

We decide to spend some time exploring this area and are rewarded with Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrushes skulking through the bushes. From a distance they appear quite plain, but once focused in the bins, the dark spotting on the breast and the yellow wings appear striking. A pair of Striated Laughingthrushes are primarily arboreal, their spiky crests and streaked plumage standing out in the foliage.

En-route Taluka - Seema

Brown Dipper (juvenile)
Brown Dippers are aplenty in the rivers and streams of this region. Many are juveniles - some already hunting for their food like their parents.
But not the one pictured above and its sibling. 
It is their parents that are doing all the work. 
Dippers are unusual in their feeding habits. Most of the prey is caught underwater in these glacial waters. 
The parent neatly dives to be fully submerged, then comes up yards downstream, floats down further, makes several more dives...and when something is finally caught, the juvenile streaks down to the appropriate rock and begs to be fed.

Yellow-throated Marten
We were able to observe martens on two occasions. Once, as pictured here, scrambling along on the opposite hill from us, across the river. Later, on being spied by shepherd dogs and given chase, it effortlessly foiled them by climbing a steep cliff.
Another time I ducked under a culvert to photograph dragonflies, and surprised a marten only yards from me. Presumably it was bathing since the coat was fully wet.

Interesting pattern on river boulder
Light drizzle most afternoons caused water to seep down onto the track
Past the village of Datmir and closer to Seema, the snows loom higher
Now we have to step aside to allow mules laden with rucksacks, tents and sleeping mats to pass. Then the first group of schoolchildren trekkers appear. On being asked how far they had gone, a chubby girl announces that she was one of the few who was able to make it up to Har-ki-dun. Another says that 'it was s-o-o-o cold'. The school party straggles past. One mule has a girl astride. I notice that many of the mules have far too large a load tied onto their backs. Some mule drivers are only carrying back empty plastic containers, chivvying their charges along. 

Grey Bushchat (male)

Grey Bushchat (female)
In this riverside scrub, dotted with thorny bushes sprouting yellow flowers, we come across several species in a matter of minutes, all within a few yards of each other. The highlight is a white-tailed rubythroat.

White-tailed Rubythroat
A pair of smallish babblers confuses me - but we later ID them as the White-browed Fulvetta. A solitary Striated Prinia stacks up as the only prinia we saw.

Long-tailed Minivet (male)
We find minivets usually in pairs. Females sport yellow in place of the male's red. 

Red-billed Blue Magpie
We were able to observe a magpie nest with three chicks. The magpie parents were able providers, and were their usual exuberant selves, unlike some other bird parents which appear to be rather harassed at their job.


Inverted ice-cone in the middle at back, partially obscured by clouds- Swargrohini (?)

Russet Sparrow

Himalayan Woodpecker
Streaked Laughingthrush

The locals


On the trekking route we do come across a few children importuning visitors for a 'toffee'. But this toddler, seen here with his grandmother, only smiled shyly at us. When he was given a (tiny) fistful of dry fruits his little cheeks got redder and his smile would have made the whole trip worthwhile even if we hadn't seen many birds.

To be fair, some of the menfolk of Taluka do actually work. This gent was often busy with something or the other in his hut just behind the FRH.

Well, that concludes the birding blogposts from our trip to Garhwal, but I'm going to add another report on the dragonflies and butterflies from here...

sahdevsingh2004@yahoo.co.in

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Garhwal 3 - birdlist of Govind National Park, Uttarakhand


Here is a list of the birds that we observed in the Govind National Park, Garhwal, Uttarakhand during our trip in May 2014.

I have not included common birds such as the House Sparrow, Common Myna, etc.

Also not included are some species that we only heard calling, but never saw: Eurasian Cuckoo, Lesser Cuckoo, Common Hawk-Cuckoo, Mountain Scops Owl, Brown Hawk Owl, to name a few.

I have also omitted certain birds that we saw en route to the Govind National Park: Paradise Flycatcher, Crested Kingfisher, Egyptian Vulture, Golden Oriole, etc.

Common Name
1 Spot-winged Grosbeak
2 Small Niltava
3 Rufous-bellied Niltava
4 Black-backed Forktail
5 Small Forktail
6 Brown Dipper
7 Black-chinned Babbler
8 Black Bulbul
9 Himalayan Bulbul
10 Kaleej Pheasant
11 White-capped Water Redstart
12 Plumbeous Redstart
13 Black-lored Tit
14 Great Tit
15 Spot-winged Tit
16 Green-backed Tit
17 Black-throated Tit
18 Dark-sided Flycatcher
19 Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher
20 Ultramarine Flycatcher
21 Verditer Flycatcher
22 Long-tailed Minivet
23 Grey Bushchat
24 Pied Bushchat
25 Siberian Stonechat
26 Grey Treepie
27 Great Barbet
28 Red-billed Blue Magpie
29 Blue-capped Rockthrush
30 Chestnut-bellied Rockthrush
31 Slaty-headed Parakeet
32 Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon
33 Spotted Dove
34 Rufous-turtle Dove
35 Streaked Laughingthrush
36 Striated Laughingthrush
37 Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush
38 Himalayan Swiftlet
39 Fork-tailed Swift
40 Red-rumped Swallow
41 Himalayan Griffon
42 Eurasian Hobby
43 Common Kestrel
44 Crested Serpent Eagle
45 Greater Yellownape
46 Lesser Yellownape
47 Himalayan Woodpecker
48 Brown-fronted Woodpecker
49 Scaly-bellied Woodpecker
50 Rufous-bellied Woodpecker
51 Grey-hooded Warbler
52 Western Crowned Warbler
53 Greenish Warbler
54 Tickell's Leaf Warbler
55 Eurasian Blackbird
56 Grey-winged Blackbird
57 Indian Blue Robin
58 Long-tailed Shrike
59 Whiskered Yuhina
60 Plain-backed Thrush
61 Spotted Nutcracker
62 Red-headed Bullfinch
63 Brown Bullfinch
64 Indian Cuckoo
65 Eurasian Jay
66 White-tailed Rubythroat
67 Striated Prinia
68 White-browed Fulvetta
69 Pink-browed Rosefinch
70 Hoopoe
71 White Wagtail
72 Grey Wagtail
73 Large-billed Crow                                
74 Russet Sparrow

75Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch
76 Blue Whistling Thrush
77 Oriental White Eye

Monday, June 2, 2014

Garhwal 2 - birding the track between Sankri and Taluka


Day 4 morning: drive from Naitwar FRH to Taluka FRH via Sankri. 
Day 4 and 5: birding along the track Sankri - Taluka.

The drive Naitwar-Sankri-Taluka is very scenic. There are stretches of excellent forest en route. Oak, horse-chestnut, maple, fir, different species of pine, and many not-so-mighty deodhars(I've definitely seen larger deodhars elsewhere) clothe these hills as you wind your way further up the tons valley.

A view of Swarghrohini from Sankri
Sankri is a pretty village with a few hotels advertising the fabulous views of the 'six-thousanders' (peaks higher than 6000 M) in the distance. The road reduces to a rough forest track a few kms beyond Sankri. Smaller cars would not be able to go any further on this track to Taluka. SS's 4WD is up for the challenge though, with the all-terrain tyres now coming into their own.
 
Track  between Sankri and Taluka
The same track - fording rivulets
Just a quick word about the track and certain sections like the one pictured above. These very same rivulets become rushing torrents swollen with ice-melt in the afternoons, but were just about negotiable when we visited. One has to remember that this was a walking track not too many years ago. It was widened and is now under constant repair from landslides by hardworking crews through the year.

I'm reminded of Vikram Seth's 'The Elephant and the Tragopan' from his 'Beastly Tales...'. This extract is from a tale straight from the Land of Gup but it rings so very true:

"As every bird and mammal knows,
when the road comes the forest goes".

The road has indeed come to Taluka but the forest has not quite gone as yet. There are still pristine stretches where the bright sunlight fails to pierce the gloom of the forest floor. 

Over two full days we do see many excellent birds, yet animals are few: only a pair of barking deer observed after miles of walking. 

Spotted Nutcracker
This party of 4 corvids (nutcrackers are related to crows) announces their affinity to their common relations by cawing from high perches on conifers. The white on the tail is very noticeable in flight.

Ultramarine Flycatcher
The dry 'trrrr' of this common flycatcher is somewhat different from the similar call of the red-breasted flycatcher which is surprisingly absent in these parts.

Red-headed Bullfinch (Male)
A flock of 7-8 bullfinches is quite the highlight of Day 4. They give themselves away with their soft musical calls. Yellow replaces the red on the heads of females. We would see them over several days, but the best sighting was when they put on a display only yards from us on a moss-laden rocky wall with trailing creepers. A troupe of cirque-du-soleil performers as they swung from the strands, picking at the vegetation. 

 Chestnut-bellied Rockthrush (Male)
 Female
This pair of rockthrushes were obviously building a nest as one can see from the nest material in the female's bill. The male was calling incessantly from exposed perches on trees.

A couple of Grey-winged Blackbirds forages in the leaf-litter on the ground. Another unfamiliar call leads us to a (surprisingly perched) Indian Blue Robin. A Eurasian Jay allows glimpses in the thick foliage.

The forest of calling cuckoos
This particular stretch of forest pictured above is inhabited by several cuckoos. We only hear them without catching even a glimpse. The Indian Cuckoo, Common Hawk-Cuckoo and Lesser Cuckoo. Keeping to the script, a vocal White-browed Scimitar Babbler also never shows itself.

 A bridge too far
Probably the densest forest stretched down a steep hill to a bridge-spanned gorge of the tons. An afternoon saw us scrambling ('as far as we can go') down an animal track to the bridge. We meet a goat-herd who is coming up. He tells us the local names of some puzzling trees, and on learning that we are looking for birds, comments, 'they are sleeping now'. The only birds not in slumber are a Himalayan Woodpecker and a female Rufous-bellied Woodpecker. Later, from the main track we observe a large green woodpecker that causes us some confusion, until the guidebooks confirm it as a Scaly-bellied Woodpecker, from the barred tail and large size.

Flowering rhododendron, and goats on the opposite cliff

Flowering tree

 plants clinging to rocky fissures

Langur

We come across a large group of langurs in broad-leaved forest. I remember Happy's description of the himalayan langur (maned; more hirsute). These langurs look quite different from those in the plains. Menon's 2014 edition of the 'Mammals of India' has indeed described several different sub-species of the langur,  including this himalayan langur.

Taluka FRH in foreground

Taluka FRH, gazebo and walnut trees in the compound
The views are just spectacular from the FRH verandah and gazebo. Our usual routine after the day's tramping would be to have hot soup sitting under the gazebo. However, as we discovered on the first evening, if the wind picks up, one required a warm jacket.

New GMVN huts - not operational!
Even though Taluka is the starting point for several treks in this area (Har-ki-dun, Ruinsara tal to name a couple), there are almost no staying options here (other than the FRH). The old GMVN guesthouse is in shambles. The new imported pre-fab huts of pine look inviting. Yet if you peek through the new but broken window panes, there are plumbing fittings and other rubble strewn around inside. It appears that the trekking companies prefer using Sankri for an overnight stay.

By common consensus we agree that the menfolk of Taluka are amongst the laziest to be found anywhere. In contrast, the women toil hard: fetching firewood, tilling the fields, washing and cooking. The men hang around doing nothing.

We appear to have got our city-legs going strongly by now, so the next plan is to trek part-way up towards Har-ki-dun from Day 6. Will post that next...

sahdevsingh2004@yahoo.co.in